Layout, making holes, screwing screws

When planning out which enclosure to go with, I made a listing of the dimensions of all the traditional rackmount mixers. I realized that while the Rane MP2016 is very shallow (too shallow for a DIYer to jam everything into that space), I could match the dimensions of the Urei 1620, and that was good enough for me. Still, it took a lot of planning and small adjustments to get everything to work. Set up like this, most of the things fit and work as I originally planned.

Back Left Bottom: PSU (AC to DC +/-)

Back Left Top: phono preamps (2)

Left, Front: VU meter circuits

Center, Rear: relays

Center, Front: audio/power distribution

Back Right Bottom: main audio board

Back Right Top: cue/headphone board

When looking at the mixer this way (from the inside), inputs will be at back left, and outputs will be back right, and the fx loop will be somewhere in the middle. So this way, the boards line up mostly pretty nicely with what they'll be routed to.

Masking the base and marking off points to drill for standoffs:

Aaaand first layer drilled and mounted, shown with mostly completed rear panel and a small amount of wiring completed:

Some uninteresting notes on the rear panel:

Inputs are on the left. Each channel will have 2 input options with a switch at the front panel (channels 1 and 4 will be Line/Line, and channels 2 and 3 will be Phono/Line). Phono jacks have a grounding post below them. The tape out has a switch below it and that'll be to switch the tape output between pre- and post-fx. Versatility/why not. There are 2 linked power plugs, one of which will allow the same wall wart plug to be used to power the isolator I will eventually be adding..